Most car buyers compare sticker prices first and running costs last. That order often leads to the wrong choice. A petrol car can be the cheapest to buy and still cost far more over five years than a hybrid or an electric car, and the reverse can also be true if you drive very little. This guide shows a simple, repeatable way to compare the three, wherever you live.
Short answer: work out your cost per kilometre for each option, multiply it by the distance you actually drive in a month, and then see how many months the running-cost saving takes to repay any extra purchase price. Everything else is detail.
What counts as a "running cost"?
For a fair comparison, separate the costs into two groups.
| 1 | Energy: petrol for a petrol car, petrol (used more efficiently) for a hybrid, and electricity for an EV. This is the biggest difference between the three and the easiest to calculate. |
|---|---|
| 2 | Everything else: servicing, tyres, insurance, annual taxes, and financing. These matter, but they vary a lot by model, city and insurer, so treat them as a second step rather than guessing. |
Depreciation (how much value the car loses) is real money too. It is harder to predict, especially for newer technologies, so keep it in mind as a risk rather than a fixed number.
Step 1: Find your cost per km
The formulas are simple:
| 1 | Petrol or hybrid: fuel price per litre divided by km per litre. |
|---|---|
| 2 | EV: electricity price per kWh multiplied by kWh used per km. A rough figure is battery size divided by rated range. |
Here is a worked example using Pakistan figures listed on CarVoltX on 26 October 2026. Petrol was PKR 377.71 per litre on our Pakistan fuel prices page. Our EV savings calculator uses default tariffs of PKR 50 per kWh for home charging and PKR 120 per kWh for public charging, and you can edit both.
| Option | Assumption | Approx. cost per km |
|---|---|---|
| Petrol car | 10 km/L (the baseline our EV savings tool uses) | PKR 37.8 |
| Petrol car | 12 km/L | PKR 31.5 |
| Hybrid | 23 km/L (a best-case quoted figure) | PKR 16.4 |
| EV, home charging | 61.5 kWh pack, 433 km catalogue range, PKR 50/kWh | PKR 7.1 |
| EV, public charging | Same car, PKR 120/kWh | PKR 17.0 |
The EV row uses the MG ZS EV's catalogue battery and range as listed in our EV savings tool. Real-world use is usually less efficient than catalogue range, so treat EV figures as a best case and add a margin.
Two points stand out. First, an EV charged at home is far cheaper per km than either petrol option. Second, an EV that relies only on public fast charging can cost about the same per km as a very efficient hybrid. Where you charge matters as much as what you drive.
Step 2: Multiply by your real monthly distance
Cost per km only becomes meaningful when you scale it up. Be honest about your distance: check your odometer over a normal month instead of guessing.
| Option | Monthly energy cost at 1,500 km |
|---|---|
| Petrol car (10 km/L) | About PKR 56,700 |
| Petrol car (12 km/L) | About PKR 47,200 |
| Hybrid (23 km/L) | About PKR 24,600 |
| EV, mostly home charging | About PKR 10,700 |
| EV, public charging only | About PKR 25,600 |
If you drive 500 km a month, divide these by three. The gaps shrink in rupee terms, which is why low-mileage drivers often find a petrol car is still the sensible buy.
Step 3: Work out the payback period
Hybrids and EVs usually cost more to buy. The question is how long the running-cost saving takes to cover that premium.
Payback (months) = extra purchase price divided by monthly saving.
A real example from our catalogue: the Honda HR-V VTi-S petrol is listed at PKR 7,299,000 ex-factory and the HR-V e:HEV hybrid at PKR 9,299,000, a gap of PKR 2,000,000. CarVoltX lists the HR-V range at 12-23 km/L. If we take 12 km/L for the petrol and the quoted 23 km/L for the hybrid, a 1,500 km month saves roughly PKR 22,600 in fuel. That means about 89 months, or a little over seven years, to recover the price gap on fuel alone.
That does not make the hybrid a bad buy. Trims can differ in equipment, so compare them line by line, and hybrids typically feel quieter in stop-start traffic. Fuel prices can also rise, which shortens the payback. But it shows why the maths should come before the showroom visit. Drive 3,000 km a month and the payback halves. Drive 750 km and it doubles.
Step 4: Add the costs people forget
| 1 | Home charger and wiring: an EV owner without home charging loses most of the cost advantage. Budget for a proper installation if you can charge at home. |
|---|---|
| 2 | Servicing: EVs have no engine oil, spark plugs or clutch, so routine servicing is usually simpler. Hybrids still have an engine to maintain, plus a hybrid battery and system. |
| 3 | Tyres: EVs are often heavier and deliver torque instantly, which can wear tyres faster. |
| 4 | Battery warranty: read the written terms for years, kilometres and the capacity level that triggers a claim. |
| 5 | Insurance and annual taxes: these depend on price, engine size or powertrain and local rules. Ask for a written quote. |
| 6 | Financing: a higher purchase price means a bigger loan and more interest. Run both options through our EMI calculator so the monthly instalment is part of the comparison. |
Which option tends to suit which driver?
| If you... | Usually worth a close look |
|---|---|
| Drive under about 800 km a month and want the lowest purchase price | Petrol |
| Drive a lot in city traffic and cannot charge at home | Hybrid |
| Drive a lot and can charge at home or at work | EV |
| Want electric commuting but take long trips where chargers are sparse | Plug-in hybrid or range-extender, after checking charging habits |
These are starting points, not rules. Your tariff, fuel price and distance decide the answer.
Common questions
Are quoted km/L and range figures realistic?
Treat them as best case. Traffic, air conditioning, speed and load all cut efficiency. For EVs, range figures also depend on the test cycle, so a China-cycle number and a Europe-cycle number are not directly comparable. Our How far does my EV go? tool converts between cycles.
Does this work outside Pakistan?
Yes. The method is the same everywhere; only the inputs change. Indian buyers can use the India EV savings calculator and India fuel prices. For other markets, plug your own fuel and electricity rates into the formulas above.
How often should I redo the sums?
Whenever fuel or electricity prices move noticeably. Petrol rates in some markets change frequently, so check the dated figure on our fuel prices page before you decide.
Bottom line
Do not choose a powertrain on reputation. Work out cost per km, scale it to your real monthly distance, and divide any price premium by the monthly saving. If the payback is shorter than the time you plan to keep the car, the more efficient option is likely worth it. To run your own numbers, start with the EV savings calculator, then compare shortlisted models side by side on CarVoltX Compare.
Prices and rates in this guide were checked on CarVoltX on 26 October 2026 and will change. Confirm the final price with an authorised dealer. Read how we source figures in our editorial policy.
